Originally published January 4, 2018. Title updated in January 2026.

It’s still true, I think, what Samuel Johnson said many years ago about traveling: “The use of traveling is to regulate imagination with reality, and instead of thinking of how things may be, see them as they are.”

For instance you need to see firsthand, in modern China, the ear cleaners who go to teahouses in the People’s Park in Chengdu and offer ear cleaning services. Yes, this is exactly what is sounds like! People can get their ears cleaned (in public) while they enjoy afternoon tea!

You might imagine a bustling, modern China with is myriad factories and populous cities. But what of the reality in the village of Fengdu where dental services are offered in the street?

The China I saw was admittedly only a small sliver of how things are. The reality I saw is what I was permitted and encouraged to see and experience.

The underpasses in major cities were pristine and planted with beautiful gardens. I didn’t see homeless living underneath them as I did in neighboring India. Is this because China has done such an amazing job at creating economic growth that there aren’t any homeless in cities whose populations surpass 20 million?

The cities of Beijing, Xian, Chengdu, and Shanghai that I visited are thriving cosmopolitan centers. A friend put it best when she said they looked like “legos”. Each city center was chock-full of apartment buildings as far as you could see. One building, then another, and another. Each apartment building appearing like its neighbor with little outward individuality.

Laundry adorned nearly every balcony of Shanghai’s modern apartment buildings like ornaments.

Hundreds of millions of people have been lifted out of poverty and now live in apartments in major cities. Children who earn enough money dutifully send it back to their parents who may still eke out a subsistence living in agricultural communities where the retirement age is mid-50’s. A small house in the historic, traditional, hutong district of Beijing might sell for $1 million. The family uses a public bathroom across the street, shared with many neighbors.

My visit to the Terra Cotta Warriors in Xian was a highlight of my visit. I was surprised to learn that it is still an active archaeological site and see the team of scientists at work in pits. I was amazed that over one thousand years ago an emperor was so concerned about his afterlife that he commissioned an army of 8,000+ soldiers to be built and buried across 30+ acres.

It is true what they say, China is a land of contrast. I visited a city with more than 6 million vehicles; a bustling financial center in Shanghai; a village relocated due to the Three Gorges Dam; a hanging coffin along the Yangtze, centuries-old Terra Cotta warriors; and a traditional family home without running water and modern apartment buildings.

I enjoyed wonderful food, including Peking duck in Beijing, noodles in Xian, and a traditional hot pot dinner in Chengdu.

I learn something on each of my world travels that informs my perspective and world outlook. On this journey I came away with the strong belief that there is more “gray” than “black and white” when examining different political and economic situations.

Millions of people are no longer living in poverty and help other generations. This progress has come at a price, though, as farmlands and the environment have been eradicated to make room for cities as they expand ever outward. And the constantly grey, polluted skies are a reminder of the many inherent trade offs of rapid economic development.

You might also be interested in Tibet Travel Diary and Photos.

Originally published December 14, 2017. Title updated in January 2026.

Eyewitness account to Tibet

The first thing that struck me after landing in Tibet was the sky - how sunny and blue it was! Having spent the prior week in Beijing, Xian and Chengdu where the sun was barely visible through a thick haze (a.k.a. smog), Tibetan blue skies were a welcome change. The second thing that I noticed was the amazing scenery. The third thing, was nausea.

I had been at high altitude without incident while travelling in the Andes so I was unprepared for what hit me in Tibet, which was really unpleasant. Enough said. Despite the altitude sickness that I experienced I would happily return to Tibet! The three nights I spent in Llasa, Tibet were the highlight of my two week journey.

Tibetan Growth

If you’ve read my other travel photography posts, or follow me on Instagram, you know that I love to experience places where the cultures are different from New England culture. As a traveler I try to keep an open mind and immerse myself in unfamiliar cultures and experience them from multiple vantage points. It isn’t always easy. In Tibet, I couldn’t help feel that I had come too late to experience traditional Tibetan culture and was left asking myself: is Tibetan growth creating a better quality of life for the Tibetan people or erasing centuries of tradition? Is it possible to do both at the same time?

(You might also be interested in this travel blog: Zambia, Botswana and South Africa: Photos from Africa)

Tibet’s growth and modernization were visible in bold and subtle ways. It was evident in the construction cranes building modern apartment buildings that juxtaposed with snow-covered Himalayas. Also too in the paved airport expressway that wound through tunnels blasted into the Tibetan plateau. It was clearly visible in billboard advertisements that dotted the expressway beside lakes and golden-leafed Aspens. In a more subtle way, it was present with the tree plantings designed to oxygenate the atmosphere.

I didn’t have to look beyond my hotel, though, to see signs of development. The luxury Shangri-La hotel in Llasa is a scant few years old. The number of tourists visiting the Tibet Autonomous Region (TAR) is difficult to pin down but it seems clear that tourism is on the rise. (Read this Washington Post article for more on calculating visitors.) A stroll through the narrow streets surrounding the historic Jokhang Temple in downtown Llasa now feature a myriad of wares and trinkets for sale to passersby. This commerce center has sprouted within the past couple of years.

Much of the influx into Tibet is from the Chinese people who see opportunities for personal growth in Llasa. Our local guide told us she visited Tibet on vacation and “it was like a dream”. Many are attracted to clean air, blue skies, modern housing and job prospects.

Non-Chinese tourism is on the rise too, though, and I can’t help wonder what its impact is having on traditional Tibetan ways. In quantum mechanics our very act of observation can influence what is taking place. Is that happening in Tibet? What am I influencing with my presence? Money from tourists provides jobs and a higher standard of living while at the same time bringing visible changes to the landscape and culture.

Tibetan Traditions

Tibet is full of history and tradition. I struggled out of bed to see for myself a few of the spiritual and historic sites.

I feel very privileged to have visited the Dalai Lama’s summer palace. Norbulingka has been lovingly preserved as it was when the 14th Dalai Lama fled in exile to India in 1959. The expansive gardens and palace are stunning. Rooms are a rich tapestry (literally and figuratively) that depict the history of the world and also highlight the smallest of details. For instance, a clock is stopped at the precise time the 14th Dalai Lama fled in exile.

I am also thankful I visited the Johkang Temple in the center of old Llasa city. After passing through metal detectors at the perimeter of Barkhor square I was greeted by a feast for the senses that included colorful prayer flags, the distant Himalayas and pilgrims prostrating themselves outside the Temple.

Johkang Temple is the holiest destination for Tibetan Buddhist pilgrims. Inside the temple there are two informal paths, one for pilgrims and the other for tourists. Pilgrims, often wearing or holding white prayer scarfs, bring yak butter from home to pour and leave behind as an offering and in respect. Among the many statues that are inside the temple is one (Jowe Rinpoche) that is purported to have been created during the lifetime of Buddha Shakyamuni during the 6th to 5th century BCE. It is believed to have been blessed by Buddha himself.

It’s hard to describe what it felt like to be inside this Temple and to be standing in Barkhor Square. The best way I know how to describe it is to say that I was completely at peace and for those moments didn’t have another care in the world. I was at once overcome with the smells (e.g., lots of yak butter) and sights (e.g., Buddhist statues) and sounds (e.g., soft Buddhist prayers). It’s a humbling experience to be allowed into the holiest of Buddhist temples.

Mingling of Old and New in Tibetan Culture

In my view Tibet is at a crossroads. Traditional Tibetan culture continues to co-mingle with Chinese ways and also other Western cultures. I was told by one guide during my visit that of the three million people in the Tibet Autonomous Region one million are Chinese. Whether these numbers are precise is not really the point. More to the point is that Tibetan culture is changing, and changing fast. China is driving its growth. But so too, are the Western tourists that come in increasing numbers to experience for themselves what life is like at the roof of the world. Tibet is not alone in this situation. Case in point: during my visit to Antarctica I was acutely aware of the potential influence of humans in this fragile ecosystem.

Change is inevitable. It will bring with it better standards of living as well as a melding of culture, values and ideals. As a traveler my aim is to explore with my eyes wide open and question – exploring the good and the bad along with the ugly. I’ve often said that I wish it were mandatory for every American to visit at least one place that is culturally different from our own so we can each broaden our perspective. Maybe though, that’s unnecessary. After all, America is already a melting pot of dozens of cultures from across the globe. And in the end, isn’t that part of what makes America great?

You might also be interested in reading The Pink Monks of Myanmar: Eyewitness to Life as a Buddhist Nun or Pictures from Kathmahdu, Nepal

Originally published on: January 23, 2016. Title updated in January 2026.

It was easy to become enchanted by her. Her unabashed smile was captivating. And she seemed to radiate calmness, happiness and confidence.

What do you know about Buddhist nuns? You may have seen photos of Myanmar’s Buddhist monks in their saffron colored robes. Or, you’ve seen or heard his holiness the Dalai Lama.

Before my visits to Nepal and Myanmar I had read about Buddhism, which has always fascinated me. Most of the books are written from a male perspective, however, and don't illuminate the lives of women in monastic orders, either Theravada or Mahayana Buddhism.

The 'Pink Monks' of Myanmar

The ‘pink monks’ of Myanmar are girls and women ranging in ages from around 10 upwards. They wear light pink robes and have shaven heads. Myuk told me she had been at the nunnery in the Saigaing Hills for 30 years, since she was a girl of just 10 years old. (Note, I may not have the correct spelling of her name).

Myuk spoke excellent English and pointed out their learning room where they receive a free education. The 100-150 nuns receive two meals per day and clothing. For many young girls joining the monastic order is a way to escape poverty or worse situations.

The nuns in this Theravada Buddhist order do not farm or sell small handicrafts. Like their male monk counterparts they rely on almsgiving - the generosity of others - for their food and goods.

My brief conversation with Myuk, and the opportunity to get a glimpse into her life, was a real privilege. These types of encounters and memories are the reason I travel to countries and cultures that are different from mine (spending 20+ hours on planes!).

Khachoe Ghakyil Ling Nunnery, Nepal

In 2013, on my prior journey to Asia, I visited the Khachoe Ghakyil Ling Nunnery in Kathmandu. According to the Kopan Monastery website the nunnery is home to around 360 nuns many of whom are refugees from Tibet.

Whereas the monks of Myanmar practice Theravada Buddhism the monks and nuns in Kathmandu follow Mahayana Buddhist practices. If you’re interested you can read more about the difference in these two schools here.

One of the things I remember most about my visit to this nunnery is learning about the incense the nuns make and sell to support the nunnery. I had never seen incense made before and certainly never experienced anything like this.

I went inside a small room where four or five women were patiently bundling the incense that was drying on shelves near the room’s entrance. Gift boxes of incense were sold in the monastery shop and used to support the monks and nuns of Kopan Monastery and Nunnery.

The day I visited the nunnery happened to also be an exam day for the nuns and I was privileged to get a brief glimpse of that part of their world too – becoming an eye witness to this important passage.

What I’m Reading

Often when I return from my latest main street or back road journey I find myself drawn to personal accounts of living in these exotic lands. One of the next on my booklist is a story about the woman of Nepal called The Violet Shyness of their Eyes: Notes from Nepal.

I've just finished reading a memoir by Inge Sargent (Twilight over Burma: My Life as a Shan Princess) about her days as the Mahadevi of Hsipaw upon her graduation from a university in Colorado and marriage to a Shan prince.

You may also be interested in:

• Generosity at Chauk Htat Gyi (Photos of the Myanmar People, Part I)
• Pictures from Kathmandu Nepal

Originally published December 30, 2015. Title updated in January 2026.

Dear Friends: It has been several months since I posted a blog with new photos and I feel I owe my readers an explanation. While “sometimes life gets in the way of the best laid plans” is apt in this case it isn’t a very specific answer. During the past year I journeyed to the Antarctic Peninsula, my technology company was acquired by a large firm, I changed jobs to return to a small tech company, and I became the curator (e.g., legal guardian) for my Aunt. The last of these was the most challenging by far. If I’m being truthful though, on top of all of those things (which reduced the time I had available to devote to my art) I also needed a “creative break” – a time to step back and re-energize. As we approach the end of 2015 I feel rejuvenated and am looking ahead to the New Year: to my new photographic collection (working title: “At the Edge of the Sky”) and to more journeys to main streets and back roads. And with that, I'd like to tell you about a few of the wonderful people I met on my latest journey to Myanmar….

What I remember most fondly about my visit to Myanmar this Fall are its people. As my readers know I am a traveler, having journeyed to six continents and dozens of countries. So, I’m not looking at this experience from a limited vantage point. And I can honestly say that the openness, generosity, and warm nature of the Myanmar people set them apart in my mind from virtually every place I’ve been privileged to experience. Remember too, this is a country that was occupied at one time by the British and the Japanese among others. And today Myanmar is a country of some eight major national ethnic races.

I can show you photographs of the Myanmar people and you’d get some sense of them. You’ll get an even better sense of the people and culture of Myanmar if I share a few personal stories with you too.

Chauk Htat Gyi

Arriving in Yangon from Bangkok I felt a bit like the imaginary Dorothy when she set foot in Oz – as they say, I wasn’t in Kansas anymore. It can take a while to get one’s bearings in a new country, particularly in one that has been closed to Western tourism for most of its existence and is about to hold its first General Election since 2010. I had a few butterflies as I removed my shoes and socks (a Buddhist custom) to visit the enormous 64 meter-long reclining Buddha image at the Chauk Htat Gyi pagoda.

While I began to look around I caught the eye of a beautiful young girl who was looking my way. She was smiling. I walked toward her general direction. When I got closer she thrust out her hand and in perfect English introduced herself to me with a sweet smile. Her Mum and brother were with her, “picnicking” on a blanket near the Buddha image. She introduced me to her family and we spoke for a few minutes before I said good bye.

Buoyed by this experience I continued along the edge of the reclining Buddha image. On the other side I saw another girl, about 13 years old, also dressed in a beautiful dress – her holiday finest. I motioned with my camera to ask if it was ok to take her photo. Once again, she was with her Mom and was simply enjoying the day together. After taking a few images and chatting I thanked Chou and turned to leave and rejoin the others I was traveling with.

Here's the really amazing part -- a few moments later she came running up to me and handed me an origami flower that she had just made for me!! Imagine that – I took her photograph and ought to be the one to give her thanks. And, she gave me a present. Then, she made another for my friend whom I raced toward to tell her what had just happened.

Chou gave me a present in more ways than one. This encounter occurred on my first day in the country and put me at ease about travel to this very far away place at a time of great change. I immediately felt that this was a special country and one that I would enjoy visiting.

In the next blog post I'll share a story about my visit to a nunnery. Until then, you may also be interested in these posts:

• Pictures from Kathmandu Nepal
• The Cowboys of Wyoming

Originally published January 22, 2014. Title updated in January 2026.

All of my senses came alive in Nepal. From the moment I landed and disembarked I knew that I was going to have an extraordinary few days. And I did.

Upon first arrival in a place as interesting as Nepal, I find everything new and fascinating. So, one of the biggest photographic challenges is to stay focused on a theme. Before I left for Nepal (and India) I decided to extend my fine art photography series about the main streets in America, to Asia. It was one of two travel photography themes that I wanted to focus on during the trip. What would the main streets in Nepal look like? Would there be similarities to America?

Kathmandu

Leaving the beautiful Dwarika’s Hotel one morning, I was struck by the small shops along the many unpaved roads of Kathmandu. In front of each small storefront a woman squatted, boiling tea for breakfast. Row-upon-row of boiling metal pots sat upon small fires tended by these women. Behind them bikes, cows, buses and pedestrians rolled past as the steam from their morning meals climbed, mingling with the smokiness from the nearby funeral pyres that burn 24 hours a day, 7 days each week.

Later, the corrugated metal storefronts opened to reveal a freshly butchered animal splayed on a counter top or clothing or sundries. Everything was orderly and swept clean by straw brooms used to clear debris into the dirt roads. I had the sense of tidiness and a way of life that seemed to function despite the poverty and lack of modern facilities.

Durbar Square Kathmandu

One of my favorite ways to experience a new place is by foot. Walking through narrow and winding passages I feel part of the daily hustle-and-bustle of local life (even though it is hard to blend in with my dSLR and sunhat -- to ward off the ultra-violet rays 4,500 feet above sea level).

While the main streets of Kathmandu have a distinctly different palette from those back home, their basic orderliness and function and family-run shops were reminiscent of New England. Walking through the labyrinth of merchants to Durbar Square, however, was a unique experience.

It is very difficult to fully describe the scene to someone that has not experienced the melee of rickshaw sounds mingling with the smells of incense mingling with the colorful silk fabrics for sale mingling with the feel of rough-hewn dirt underfoot mingling with an almost palpable flavor of the place. Travel is often something one experiences wholly by all the senses at once.

Originally published June 12, 2012. Title updated in January 2026.

My wanderlust took me to Southern Italy in May where I visited Rome, the Amalfi Coast and Capri. There were too many tourists for my taste. I prefer the quieter main streets and back roads in more remote locations. Alas, there I was.

So, the proverbial question was: how do you make a unique photograph in the world's most visited cities and countries? I knew that I wasn't content to take the stereotypical images of the Colosseum. And our guided tour of Pompeii at Noon, accompanied by a blazing overhead sun, didn't bode well for making memorable images.

If you have been to the Amalfi Coast one of the things you'll well remember are the coastal roads that twist and turn like corkscrews. To drive on them is not for the faint of heart. I began to notice the mirrors near the entrance to the blind curves that were designed to alert drivers of oncoming traffic (as well as the liberal honking of horns). It occurred to me that driving the Amalfi coast was a fact of everyday life for residents of the Sorrentine Peninsula. This is what drew me to the mirrors. I decided to use them to tell a story about Southern Italy.

I focused on finding creative ways to use mirrors (and later windows) in my compositions to reflect the surrounding scenes. Some of these "early" images were successful and others were experimental. What I found was that this approach gave me a new way of "seeing". For instance, upon my return to Rome it allowed me to juxtapose historical Rome with the modern-day reality of getting around in a crowded city.

And it led me to take what I think is an unusual image in Saint Peter's square. In all, it gave me the opportunity to use multiple planes of perspective in my images -- a favorite approach of mine.

If I had to sum my photographic learnings I’d say: 1) have a point of view to tell; 2) don’t play it safe; 3) travel off-season!

Until the next journey.